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April 29 & 30, Amsterdam Finale

May 25, 2014 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Tuesday was the last day of my trip, the day before departure. Packing was first, so I could figure out if I needed an extra bag. Everything fit in, even the gift. The key was having some items that were used up and thus space created, and an expandable suitcase.  I walked to the Rijks to do a fond farewell. I had saved the Art is Therapy https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en tour for this special occasion. Showed up, and the no line that hasn’t been there the whole time went all the way to the street.And these were folks with a museumkaart. I was staggered. Where have these people been? Of course, I went at 10 instead of 9. Who knew the difference was that great? As I assumed, but had never tested,  the early bird finesses the line. It was starting to rain – and was forecast to increase as the day continued. Took me two seconds to decide to move on. Adios, excellent art at the Rijks.

sketchbook

 

And all your ships at sea.

ships

I took the tram to the Royal Palace (plan B) and joined that line. It wasn’t too bad – maybe 15 minutes. Worse was the rule you had to leave you purse, no matter what size, in the coatroom. That line took half an hour. One old man in sunglasses and shoe polish black hair was the only person behind the desk. He moved with great deliberation, while the line increased exponentially. Free at last, with all my money stuffed in my pockets, I walked around the palace. Turns out there is marble in Amsterdam. It’s all here! Marble floors and pillars, marble statuary, even marble ceilings.

roof

People often ask me, just what does a Key Grip do? I found a statue of one at work at the palace.

grip

Lots of nice paintings, but difficult to see in the dark, formal, cold rooms that smelled like mildew and damp tourists. For once I felt sorry for royalty, stuck in these moldering, musty marble piles. Surely they have more comfortable, brighter rooms upstairs. I hope so.  I was done in less than an hour and went back to the same line to get my purse. Another 30 minutes elapsed because it was the same elderly retainer. About 25 minutes into this shuffling line, someone called in reinforcements on a walkie talkie. As I was leaving, they were closing down the entire palace because too many visitors had come and they didn’t have enough personnel.

Raining steady now. Pulled out my umbrella after a few streets and set my Google maps for Spui, the outdoor antique market. Got there, and it was closed, due to the rain. Headed back towards the B&B, thinking lunch would be nice. Down a side street, I stopped at a hole in the wall that served french fries. Perfect! Crispy, smoking hot, salty, mayo on the side in a paper cone. The whole day brightened. A little further on I stopped in a bakery and bought a square of apple pie and a mozzarella/tomato sandwich for my dinner.

Back at the B&B, I saw the check-in email for the flight home. Looked at the flight online and saw some open seats in first class. I’m hoping I can buy my way in. (didn’t happen) Noticed they have changed the departure time for the third time, but not that much different, and tried to check in online only to get some kind of Dutch error message. My intrepid hosts, whom I cannot praise highly enough, straightened it out with a phone call. Thanks Oki and Frank!

oki and frank

The next morning I was up and out the door before 8am, en route to Schiphol airport via Uber. The first line stalled out when the DIY luggage machines quit. They look like a line of igloos. You place your bag inside the machine, it spits out a sticky tag you loop around your handle and a claim ticket for your boarding pass. A plastic dome comes down and when it goes back up, like a magic trick, poof, your luggage has vanished, on its way to the cargo hold of your plane. Only problem: three of the four machines jammed and the clueless tourists who were hefting their bags in were stuck waiting on the automated luggage check machine repair man. Eventually, order was restored, my bag was checked, and I tried to retrieve my VAT tax money. Another line and I waited in this one to be told I could only send paperwork to Paris via envelope. Not what I was told in Paris, but we’ll see. Finally at the gate where the security/customs crew waited. That was painless.  Trans-Atlantic flight remains a grueling endurance feat for me, but my economy comfort bulkhead aisle seat, while not quite as comfy as business class, was tolerable.  I sat next to an interesting fellow from the bayous of Louisiana, headed home from a stint on oil rigs in the Black Sea. He slept nearly the entire nine plus hours, and I read on my Nook.

When we landed at Hartsfield, medics boarded the plane to assist a stricken passenger seated in the tail section. We retrieved our bags and waited as instructed. My roughneck seatmate assessed the situation, muttered ‘go go go’ and hustled us out the door of the plane onto the walkway (bulkhead seats, remember?). I guess you don’t get to be an oil rig worker without a healthy dose of initiative. Off to baggage claim where a drug sniffing beagle passed up my luggage.

drugdog

Through the customs gateway and into the loving arms of Emily, who in an awesome welcome home Mom gesture, painted my Prius rims.

rims

Yeah, that’s how I roll.

Next trip, LA. June 4-9.

 

Filed Under: Amsterdam, Short Trips Tagged With: flight, museum, Rijksmuseum

LA: June 4

June 24, 2014 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

I scampered through the airport TSA pre-check. It was green lights all the way until I was selected for additional screening. That included a pat down, running the beeping wand over my sillouette, swiping my palms with something on a paper strip, and doing the hokey poky in the infamous X-ray booth. On the upside, there was no body cavity search,  and the security lady said, “Happy Birthday, darlin’. You have a blessed day,” when she was done.

Discovered we lost our treasured economy comfort bulkhead seats for the return flight when I requested the wheelchair. Fair enough, since that plane’s bulkhead is also an exit row, an automatic out for the infirm. Dang. Flight to LA not bad at all for me. I read and napped, Robert read a newspaper, went through his vast backlog of emails (7000+!  Some going back to 2004!) and took half of a prescribed muscle relaxer. He seemed to do fine. In fact he did better than at home, because he was not as bored and frustrated with his temporary disability.

IMG_9575 On arrival, Robert declined assistance – no, no I’m fine – until he walked the length of the jetway from the plane to the concourse, whereupon he cried uncle. I snagged a guy passing by with a wheelchair, and he pushed Robert through the LAX labyrinth of handicap accessible elevators, and wide, empty underground halls. The attendant was a Russian military brat until he was 10 when his parents emigrated to LA. He became a US citizen and just passed a battery of security checks in order to qualify to translate for hospitals and corporations. It was a long walk. I was very glad Robert succumbed and agreed to be helped. “Pain taught me what pride would not let me learn.”

We took the shuttle to Budget Rentacar which was a zoo. Go figure! A line so long it was out of the building and down the sidewalk. Robert secured a car and I ate my first meal in LA – spit temperature water, crumbs in the bottom of a bag of Fritos, and a piece of Vermont chocolate my daughter gave me for my birthday. I was desperate. Car sorted, Robert drove while I navigated via my iPhone Google maps, impersonating a SatNav.

IMG_9588The Little Cottage behind the Garden B&B is just as welcoming as we remembered.  Joan’s on 3rd made up for my nasty lunch with some sublime selections for takeaway, including a gorgeous salad made of grilled fresh corn, jicama, red onion, edamame, fresh apple soaked in something, and a touch of cilantro. So so delicious. Robert had egg salad on ciabatta and a cappuccino. I heroically eschewed the ham and brie on a croissant, and went for turkey meatloaf, grilled snow peas, and asparagus, butternut squash salad, grilled heirloom carrots, and that grilled corn salad. Divine. I snagged a tiramisu and a chocolate roulade for desert, which I will eat tonight along with seconds of everything I ate for lunch. I am not made of stone. Yet.

post_display_open-uri20121111-30477-1web0sr

On the walk back I see my first piece of indigenous LA graffiti; ‘Figure With iPhone Posture.’

IMG_9720

We are having a little lie down now. Will probably laze around the rest of the evening. Tomorrow Robert drives me to the Getty Villa for the day, and he’ll visit a friend in Malibu and sit on his deck. Good times.

 

Filed Under: LA, Short Trips Tagged With: apps, B&B, flight, food, Graffiti, restaurant

Madrid Unfiltered, April 1 & 2: Playing Catch-up

April 5, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Blown slightly off course by the start of my trip, I’m posting the first two days as one post.

Day One

Beloved spouse drove me to Hartsfield and took this awesome photo.va hart

I wish I always looked this good.

Day Two
Watched the sun come up over Spain through my aircraft cabin window. Iberian topography looked flat and treeless, entirely different from home. The few hills looked like weathered, half-buried bones. The phrase ‘the rain in Spain falls mainly in the plain’ sprang to my mind. I watched the shadow of my giant plane race over the fields and houses below. When it touched down there was a brief, mild stutter of the landing gear as gravity took an interest, and the rest was smooth as cream.

The nice taxi guy  gladly took my Visa, as has everyone else, from my landlady to El Corte Inglés, and the Prado museum. So far, no charge is too big, no charge is too small but most want my ID and I’ve hauled out my passport more today than I did the whole time I was in Paris. I’m going to see if they accept my driver’s license as ID. Much easier to tote around, and easier to replace if it came to that.

My landlady met me at the apartment. She’s the architect who remodeled the building in a very intelligent and comfortable way that respected the history while making it efficient and comfortable.

Unpacked, changed and geared up to find milk and buy the Museum card I expect to use every day. Put on my Madrid music mix and walked down Carerra San Jeronimo to the Prado. That street is my idea of hell – seedy, crowded, tourist-infested, the length and breadth of it lined with beggars and their dogs. One armless man shook a plastic cup in his teeth. There were the ubiquitous street mimes in spray-painted costumes. Musicians I appreciate, and try to keep change in my pocket to drop in the hat, but I’ll walk a different route to the Prado tomorrow.
There are cops in wide legged stances and swat vests carrying worn, well-used rifles and big ass machine guns straight out of Call of Duty. I see them in front of government buildings and banks and museums and all the big plazas. Yowser.
Spent too much time staring at my iphone, turning the cell off and on, messing with Wi-Fi, trying to access Gmail for previously downloaded emails and use Google maps. Walking in circles trying to start off in the right direction.

Started at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. It did not sell the museum card, but the three young women at the desk called to find out who did (answer: the state museums – Thyssen is private). Having the website page printed out was invaluable. Good strategy. Yes, everyone is speaking Spanish. English is halting but deliciously flavored with musical vowels and rolling r of Spanish. The famous Castilian lisp is prevalent and charming. French sound like birds twittering, Spanish sounds like a fountain of water. Warm water.

When I bought my museum pass at the Prado, the nice lady handed me an entrance ticket for that day so I figured it was Fate, though by then I was footsore, crazy tired, and starving hungry.
I passed though the security to commune with whatever drew my eye first. This is the beauty of my plan. I don’t have to plot it out and or rush through. I have all the time in the world to make the Prado’s intimate acquaintance.

Immediately fell in love with a special exhibit by Roger van der Wyden. His anguished expressions are incomparable, and the face of James the beloved is as chiseled as romance cover model, but with profound gravitas. I sat and drew the folds of the virgin’s white cloak and elaborate wimple for half an hour. Heaven. No photography means I will have to look long and hard, and draw often.

I stumbled on to a room with old monastery walls and marble statues of popes, kings and queens. The men were all swagger and conquest, the women haughty. I’ll be back to draw. My landlady suggested I visit a room of Greek statues purchased by Velasquez for the King. Nobody knows it was Velazquez, she confides. Ah, the secrets the locals know.

Lunch was crap at the Prado – dry bread and tired ham. I’ll only snag coffee there from now on. That was fine.

A couple of hours later I started limping back, struggling with Google maps and Internet connection again. Saw a line of taxis by a hotel with doormen and grabbed one. Worth every cent of the six euro fare. A woman driver, who, yes, took Visa, and didn’t drive me around the city, but let me off half a walking block away.

I wandered through a couple of El Corte Inglés, – like Target with a food section in the basement. Got milk, jambon, melon, Nutella, an apple tart and éclair. The basics. Couldn’t find sugar, decent cheese, or alas, crème Englaise in a box. I yearned for an independent cheese monger/bakery/green grocer like in the Marais in Paris. I’ll keep my eyes open tomorrow.

Tomorrow I’m also going to try using a paper map.

The part of the city I’m in turns out to be like the French quarter. Seedy, noisy, crowded. Tourists looking to get a little wild. I’m gonna need bigger earplugs. I think it will be fine, as tired as I’ll be. Or I can get up and join the throngs and learn to eat dinner at 11, like the locals.

In bed it’s not quiet by any means, but not unpleasant. There’s a horn playing a jazzy version of the theme from the Godfather. It’s like staying on Bourbon Street in NOLA. The horn just segued into When The Saints Go Marching In. I rest my case.

I can hear the rattle of dishes and glasses, the murmur of voices, and the clink of cutlery in use. It feels like falling asleep in your bed upstairs while your parents host a big party. The apartment is across from a restaurant/bar. They open at 6am, so they may know my name in a few days.

Dinner was delicious; jambon, half a chocolate éclair, bread with olive oil, a piece of an almond croissant.

Later that night…
Passed out before 9pm. Woke three or four times, trying to figure out if the chatter and clatter was still going on or in my head. It was still rolling. Woke up wide awake at 1:30am and thought a soothing cup of herbal tea would not go amiss. Heading back to bed with decaf chai, heard a marching band. Wait, what? I opened the wooden shutters, and the glass window to my balcony. Yep, some kind of brass and drum marching band in full cry in the plaza a block or two away.
They finished at 1:45am, and people swarmed back down the street, I suppose to finally go home, but maybe not. Listened to dumpsters rolling out over the cobbles to the curb, and a random truck at 2am. Heard a garbage truck at 3:30am. Just heard someone hammering/tapping on the wall upstairs. 3:38. Oy.

Okay, the band; maybe it’s for Easter,’ cause it’s sure not a weekend. No sleeping through those drums, I could feel them through the floor.

I will have to change my liking, as Rick Steve says. Madrileños and tourists in the center are loud and rowdy until the wee hours. I realized, standing on my balcony under a fat round moon on a pleasant spring night, watching people of all ages and genders stroll down the street, I could have walked up to see what was happening without fear or worry. The streets feel safe. That’s a good thing. Secondly, I may become diurnal, sleeping in the early part of the evening, going out at ten and sleeping again. No idea when I’ll wake up tomorrow, and no worries.

 

Filed Under: Madrid Tagged With: apartment, El Corte Inglés, flight, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Prado

Goodbye Lisboa, Hello again Madrid

May 2, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Days 7 & 8, Saturday & Sunday

I waited for my Uber taxi in Largo do Rato park. On every bench people were bent over notebooks, scribbling, and only gradually did I realize they were all sketching. Enforced stillness and attention, while waiting on Uber to pick me up, may give me some of my clearest and best memories.sketchers

The Last Ship, by Sting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X_2jhIs7LM turned out to be the song that carried me through Lisbon. No real idea why, except it’s haunting, full of melancholy and yearning.

My ambient playlist carried me through museums at a drifting pace that fit my desire to look and linger, or stop to stare long and hard. Especially Finally Moving by Pretty Lights https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk9XYQMRiLY, and Anthem, by Emancipator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PEGDGxZdzA.

For my last hurrah, I returned to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. They were out of English language audio guides again, but just as I purchased my ticket a man handed in his English language audio headset. Score! On this trip I was impressed by the singularity of expressions in the portraits.

Six examples – man1woman breton man4

moliereman2IMG_4396

I loved this fun couple – so like me and Robert.

va&rbt gubekianAte lunch in the nice museum café. This time, with scattered light rain, the outside patio was almost deserted. I sat outside at a table under a large umbrella, watching the ducks. I should have kept my eye on the thieving pigeons. One jumped on my table and made a grab for my pastéis de nata right off my plate. I flapped my museum guide to shoo it away and gave it my best Border collie stare. It eventually gave up. My other complaint – a visitor wore a perfume as pervasive and overpowering as Vicks VapoRub. I took evasive action and tried to avoid her trajectory, but I was sneezing and breathing through my mouth by the end. I could always tell when she entered/exited a room. I tried not to make scowly faces or glare but fell short a few times.

Afterward, Uber dropped me off at the park, and I watched this merry band prepare for the May 25th parades. park band.

The next morning I was up and out, after bidding a fond farewell to my Casa Amora B&B hosts. hosts http://www.casaamora.com/en/hotel-overview.html  I can heartily recommend this place if you are looking for accommodations in Lisbon. I am considering writing them a sonnet for Trip Advisor. They earned it.

I Ubered to the airport (14 Euros) in plenty of time and shuffled aboard my Iberia airline flight. At departure time, we remained on the runway in Lisbon, our scheduled departure delayed due to maintenance on runways in Madrid, a fact explained by the pilot in a most entertaining fashion. Here’s part of his speech over the intercom: “Why, you ask yourself, if this man knows these things, have we boarded? Well, I will tell you. I know as well as anyone of you that waiting in your seats on a plane that is not progressing is torture, but! If we are prepared and in readiness to depart and another flight is not, we move up a space in the line, and so we wait.” About twenty minutes later we took off, the flight itself blessedly uneventful.

About twenty minutes later we took off, the flight itself blessedly uneventful.

I appreciate the decision of the city of Madrid to impose a flat rate of 30 Euros on all taxis rides from the airport to the city. I have learned that my pronunciation of Spanish is so inept that all taxi drivers grunt and look baffled until I hold up my iPhone with the address and route visible on Google maps. Then they nod and head in the right direction. I don’t know if my accent is really that bad (likely) or they are feigning ignorance in hopes of driving a rube around in circles to beef up the fare. Once I pull out the iPhone and Google map way, clarity and honesty prevails. I recommend it.

Checked into the 19th-century Belle Époque Hotel Orfila, which was all that is grace, elegance, and charm. I knew I’d be weary by the end of my trip and hoped for a bit of cosseting. I way overshot the mark. Lucky me.
The man at the front desk wore a swallowtail coat, like a head footman in a regency novel. Turned out he learned English the summer he worked in Georgia at Six Flags, and said ‘Welcome y’all,’ in a credible southern accent. Small world.

The hotel had tasteful art everywhere and antique furniture. Swanky, with the patina of many decades, and linen sheets like my grandmother’s. The ladies on staff all looked like Ralph Lauren models, Spanish Vogue division, and were discreet and polite. I’m guessing in their spare time they practiced the appropriate curtsey for various ranks of nobility.

I looked like the travel-worn, scrappy hobo that I am and they were so gracious, it didn’t matter. Up to my quiet, luxurious little room, with chintz Louis XIV chairs, walnut sécrétoire and a bathroom that boasted a matching toilet and bidet and a Jacuzzi tub. I unpacked.IMG_4441

Though it overlooked the garden, the double-paned windows were so efficient I barely heard a murmur.el-secreto21

After basking in the charm of my room, I ran through the rain to get a chai tea and have a quick look around. I’m familiar with the Salamanca district because my favorite church (for spiritual practice, not art) was not far away. St George’s Anglican church, on the corner of Calle Núñez de Balboa, had wisteria over the front gate and a massive fig tree spreading shade over a back courtyard.wisteria ST Geo

Back at the hotel for the night,  a courtesy plush robe and slippers had been set out for me, along with a little linen floor mat next to the bed, I guess so my feet never had to touch the carpet. Chocolate was on the pillow with a handwritten card noting the weather for the next day.

I looked for laundry info. It was on a shelf next to the safe in the walnut shelved closets (Plural! Closets!). For double-digit euros, you could have your slacks dry-cleaned and pressed. There was no ‘wash your yoga pants and hoodie’ option, so I busted out a packet of Woolite, scrubbed them in the sink and hung them on the gold-plated towel rack to dry. I thought, boy, this will shock the maids. Maybe it did, but they were too couth to indicate by look or gesture. They probably didn’t give it a thought. I set my clothes and shoes out on a chair for the next day.chairThe mattress was comfortable, the sheets were as soft as a basket of kittens. I had a twinge of feeling a little too Granny Clampett for this joint, but I thought I’ll get used to it. And sure enough, I did.

GrannyClampett

 

 

Filed Under: Lisbon, Madrid, Short Trips Tagged With: Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Casa Amora B&B, flight, Hotel Orfila, St George's Anglican church

Prague, Day 1, Arrival

March 31, 2016 by Virginia Parker 1 Comment

My trip to the airport included an impromptu tour of Atlanta, initiated by a combination of rush hour 5pm traffic and President Obama being in town. In a quest for short cuts, Robert drove us down side streets from Buckhead to the Bluff.

Air France was fab with their usual chic, efficient, ironic service. The NOLA socialite next to me moved to join her husband and  Papillion dog, Mignon, and I had the row to myself. The seat flattened out. I lay my head down, hoping to rest my eyes, and didn’t wake up until they turned up the lights and were wheeling breakfast down the aisle. Merci!

Landed in Paris and in less than two hours boarded the plane to Prague. I snorted when I saw the only difference between business class and coach on that flight was three rows and a curtain, but then the plane prepared to take off and only four people were in that section. I had my three seats across row to myself. They served chilled shrimp and hot olive bread. The thing I thought was an odd turnip turned out to have wee tentacles, so I guess it was a squid of some kind. Gack. The tiny pastries made up for it.Landed in Prague much more alert and comfortable than I’d had any expectation to be. My driver was waiting with my name on a card. We walked to where was parked outside and across the street from the airport, but conveniently in front of bank with an ATM, so I grabbed the opportunity to withdraw some Czech cash.

Traffic was heavy and the cordial driver explained the president of China was in town, much to the citizenry’s dismay. Havel was pro-Tibet; their new Prez is sucking up to the Chinese. People are wrapping themselves in Tibetan flags in protest. Don;t get me started on politics, I begged the driver, I’ve had more than enough of that at home. Obligingly, the talk turned to architecture.

The hotel staff were waiting for me with an umbrella though it was barely misting. My luggage was taken to my room while I was warmly welcomed. They were more than pleasant. They acted like I was an elderly relative who might include them in my will. They had art recommendations and offered me some exquisite praline truffles that were bliss on the tongue.

truffleThere are only 19 rooms. It’s reminiscent of the Orfila in Madrid, only even more lush. The walls feature art by a local painter of city scenes, which here means medieval, renaissance, and 18 c architecture.

I bounded out to find milk and another ATM – successful, though it took a few minutes of coaxing to get my phone to behave. And I saw this little bridge between two houses, my first taste of Praha charm.

hw street bridge

My room is a velvet and gilt and Oriental rug jewel box. Glorious views. Absolutely silent.

hw breakfast view

The bathroom features heated floors and  a Japanese toilet that lights up, has a heated seat, and electronic controls to raise and lower the lid, The demo by the staff made me go off into fits of giggles. After a hot bath in a deep tub, I stayed awake until 1:30 am Prague time, then slept with the windows open.

Filed Under: Prague, Short Trips Tagged With: flight, Golden Well

Sbohem Prague, Привет! St Petersburg, Day 1

April 14, 2016 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

(Goodbye Prague, hello St Petersburg)

Woke up at 4:30, got up, and got going.  Here’s a farewell to Prague photo.

Life imitates art, art imitates everything
Life imitates art, art imitates everything

Made a mug of tea – nothing quite like having that option anytime night or day. I am glad I made a point of it for all my hotels. Also, first time I brought my own mug and I am glad I did. An Innkeeper’s idea of a cup suitable for tea is insufficient for my needs.  At 5:30 the night clerk brought a single cup of coffee and a tiny flask of steamed milk, and carried my bags down absolutely silently. Out to the pre-arranged car, off to the airport in zero traffic. I was dropped off not precisely curbside, but close enough to see the doors. Don’t know if this is a taxi thing or a security deal. I imagine cveryone is testy after Brussels.

The gate wasn’t open yet so I read for awhile, pinching myself periodically. I still can’t quite believe I am going to Russia. When security does open for business I set off alarms, but they swipe my hands with a square of material, analyze the result, and wave me through. I am the second person on board and the only person in business class. There were rattling sounds when the plane takes off, and a shuddering sensation. Like the parts were just a little bit loose. I read my two hour flight away.

We landed in St. Petersburg and I saw two other planes as we taxied in. There was a birch tree grove next to the runway. It reminded me of Duluth. I was expecting something bigger and much busier. Walked to customs through bare and industrial corridors. No photography allowed signs appeared at intervals (a SLR camera in a red circle with a slash across it, which seemed quaint. They haven’t gotten around to making iPhone cameras forbidden icons, I guess).

My customs guy looked about 23, with a bad hair cut and a uniform that was too big in the shoulders for him. He did a lot of frowning at my passport, running it over scanners, typing in information, and comparing it to my face multiple times. Like something might have changed from the first time. He seemed weary and much too young to be locked in this box. I soberly waited for his signal, thanked him, and practically skipped to baggage claim.

My driver, a rangy, mustachioed, white haired gent with a long stride, was holding a sign with my name. I literally had to run to keep up with him. Plenty cordial though, with a bit of English. A native St Peterburgian. He drove like NASCAR though a landscape that looked like the seamier neighborhoods of Chicago or down market Detroit. Rusting, crumbling, gray, grim, monolithic blocks of industrial architecture. Oh no, I thought, this doesn’t look anything like the pictures. Cars had a ubiquitous layer of streaky gray, a filthy, end of winter crust of grime and salt. I started looking for a Pets Or Meat sign in cyrillic. I told myself we just didn’t happen to drive through the attractive part, but it’s got to be here somewhere, right? The fact my hotel was apparently in this district gave me pause, but once we reached a canal the streets began to change, the concrete blocks of building fell away, and large houses appeared with architectural interest and charm.

I recognized my hotel entry from the time I spent gazing hopefully at the online photos and videos. My driver heaved my luggage onto the curb and sped away. I rang the two bells, hoping one worked. The door opened and I stepped into my refuge for the next three weeks.

The young people who run the front of the house are polite and cheerful and patient and friendly and helpful. Their English is excellent. There was a bit of a traffic jam at the desk; guests both coming and going. I was seated by glass wall looking into the courtyard garden. They took my passport briefly, then my money – the entire stay is paid for upon arrival. Their numbers exactly matched the ones in my notebook – having print outs of my email paper trail has come in handy, so I confidently coughed up my credit card.

Escorted up to my room via stairs that are broad and deep and old wood and marble. I’m on the top floor at the end of a corridor that’s all windows down one side. None of the doors have numbers or other identifying marks. My room is cream and white, with pickled beams overhead and light, knotty wood floor. It feels even more spacious that it looks online. Usually it’s the other way around. Must be 12 foot ceilings. Two enormous windows overlook the courtyard and have white sheers and roman blinds.

Took a stroll around my new ‘hood, saw this in a window and it exactly matched my mood.

I absolutely insist on enjoying my life.
I absolutely insist on enjoying my life.

My room is awash in light. One window is set at a slant in the roof, over one side of my bed. Lying there, I can see the blue dome painted with gold stars of Troitsky Church. Right now it’s dark-thirty and silent, profoundly quiet. It bodes well.

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Another room with a view

Filed Under: Short Trips, St. Petersburg Tagged With: Alexander House, customs, flight, Golden Well

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  • St. Paul’s Cathedral, Remember the Ladies.
  • Raphael and Nancy
  • Lost and Foundling, Dickens House Museum
  • British Museum, British Library

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