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Saturday, April 23, day off & Sunday, April 24, General Staff Building

April 29, 2016 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

I spent Saturday lounging around my hotel room, looking at the blue and gold starred church dome through the skylight, doing some hand laundry, and finding creative ways to hang it up to dry. I caught up on the blog. Took naps. I could feel my body soaking up the peace. A day of rest was past due.

SUNDAY – The General Staff Building

I Ubered to the grand arch in the curve of the building that faces the Hermitage. I took a left, hunting for the entrance to the General Staff building, the home of the impressionist collection. I did it out of a sense of obligation and duty, with country music cranked up in my earbuds. It’s the playlist I use when I’m happy or need extra starch in my spine. I had really low expectations, but  stumbled across several pieces that surprised me, along with some excretable sculpture, (that’s not a criticism, that’s a description) and Renoir’s pug-faced women. So far I’ve avoided Malevich. Here are some particular things I enjoyed in no particular order. Oh, and there is no map, no guide to the layout of the General Staff Building of any kind. So good luck with that. I treated it like a maze.

Okay, this just cracked me up.

Artist sketching a battle at sea. As one does.
Detail of an artist sketching a battle at sea. As one does.

I’m enthralled when the clothing in a portrait is on display nearby.

Peter the Great in one of his military uniforms
Peter the Great in one of his military uniforms

The actual uniform he wwore – note how the sash, on the diagonal here, is wrapped and tied in the portrait.PTG coat

This corset has a design of  Russian and French flags, crossed. Lady played for both teams.

Vive la France, Go Bears!
Vive la France! Go Bears!

Perhaps it belonged this cheerful courtesan.

If you love your job, it's not work.
If you love your job, it’s not work.

And while we’re on the subject of intimate wear, I loved this delicate batiste nightie and bold wrap. I want a shawl just like this. Though I will probably never give up sleeping in Robert’s teeshirts.

Sweet dreams are made of these.
Sweet dreams are made of these.

Here’s one of those semi-completed paintings I so enjoy, this time by Degas.

degas

The renovation of the interior of this structure was only completed a few years ago. It still has that new car smell. I love the light, the space, the room, and the lack of crowds.

Reminded me of the Getty.
Reminded me of the Getty.

The views weren’t shabby either. This is looking back toward the Hermitage.

 

view from GSB

 

Saw another Love Actually moment, this time a young woman and her mother.

love actually 2
I miss you, Bink.

These examples are just a glimpse of all the things I found to appreciate and admire.  I am so glad I didn’t let my prejudices deter me. I still have two floors to go. After I called it a day, so saturated in art I could absorb no more, I did some light shopping.

Awesome teeshirt line drawing of Peter cutting off the beard of an old school Russian man. Laos made in Russia. Double win.
Awesome teeshirt line drawing of Peter cutting off the beard of an old school Russian man. Plus, made in Russia. Double win.

Walking around I passed this street scene. This is for all y’all who imagine Russian as bleak and the citizens as grim.

https://www.virginiaparker.net/travel/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/IMG_3402.m4v

 

 

Filed Under: St. Petersburg Tagged With: General Staff Building, Love Actually

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