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Prepping for Madrid

January 5, 2015 by Virginia Parker 1 Comment

I’ll be landing at Barajas  airport in 87 days.

I’ve fired up the app https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dreamdays-countdown-to-days/id585947384?mt=8 that does a automatic countdown.  When I peek at it, I get a little frisson of anticipatory pleasure. The Mary Cassatt painting of a matador in his suit of lights is my Dreamdays trip image. Is he lighting up in the spirit of a final smoke before the firing squad, or in a post-coital mood, spent with relief at surviving his bullfight? Mary Cassatt-229663Now that the holidays are over, I’m buckling down to research,  accumulating possibilities for my day by day planner, and pre-booking tickets and museum passes.

Most of the museums I plan to see have pages on Facebook and I spent a happy couple of hours making a new Madrid/Lisbon interest list for my newsfeed. I’m now getting updates that give me glimpses of the paintings and treasures I’ll be seeing in person. And hooray for that handy ‘translate’ tab at the bottom of foreign language posts. It’s not perfect, but I get the gist.

Filled in the April day-by-day calendar with preliminary excursions and quickly realized there won’t be enough hours in the days or days in the month to fit in everything I’d like to see. Decisions must be made – El Escorial or the Royal Palace? I’ll take those kinds of inquiries to www.TripAdvisor.com which has never failed to give me cogent advice.

Figuring out which days museums are closed, what holiday to be aware of, the best days and times to visit is a lovely puzzle. I like having rain vs shine options too. Getting those all-important museum passes that permit me to bypass lines will gain me time that otherwise I might have squandered. I’ve booked one tour, with Context Travel. I’ve had excellent experiences with them in the Vatican Museum and Rembrandt’s House in Amsterdam.

I yearned to stay at the Hotel Orfila for my last five days in Madrid, but it’s really pricey, and I worried it couldn’t possibly be as lovely as I imagined. Then I came across this on the Wendy Perrin travel site: “Best bang-for-your-buck hotel -Orfila, a 32-room hotel housed in a nineteenth-century palace that feels more like a family home than a five-star Relais & Chateaux property. It is located only 15 minutes by foot from the Prado Museum in a quiet, mostly residential neighborhood. Rooms are furnished in top-quality antiques that the owner has been collecting for years, and there is a beautiful garden for guests to enjoy. It’s the kind of place where you get much more than you pay for.” That last sentence pushed me over the edge, and I found a ‘four days for the price of one’ deal, and booked it. Okay it didn’t push, I gladly jumped. Wouldn’t you? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPZw-sbU1SA

Practiced my Spanish on Duolingo, something I’ve promised myself to do five days a week until I leave. It’s day 2.

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Madrid, Preparation Tagged With: apps, hotel, Hotel Orfila, preparation, research, tour, Tripadvisor

Q & A Success

February 20, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Started posting on questions on the TripAdvisor Madrid Forum this week. I had great luck on the Paris board. Lots of helpful strategic info. One of my favorite replies linked to a Youtube site that had homemade videos of just the Louvre ceilings. Amazing and inspirational. I looked up the whole time I was there and was dazzled.

On the Madrid forum, 90% of the questions are the cheapest way to get from the airport, how to get soccer tickets, restaurant recs, best hotel at the cheapest price, and the intricacies of buying railroad tickets online. I figured my questions about art  would be a welcome change or there would be crickets.

I hit the jackpot! Art lovers on Tripadvisor who have been or are living in Madrid came out of the woodwork. One great tip was a link to a blog “Every Museum in Madrid” – a kindred spirit who lived there in 2012 and explored them all. Got some excellent leads on art in churches, plus this tantalizing exhibition –

‘A Su Imagen’ is a selection of around 100 pieces of great quality and artistic value (Rubens, Murillo, Goya, Velázquez, Valdés Leal, Cranach) These are works covering a large period of time –from the 10th to the 20th century– that come from 22 dioceses and from public and private collections. Until 12 April 2015.

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Note the closing date, which moves it up in priority. I probably would’ve missed it, blinded by the glories of the Prado. Now I have it plugged in on my Madrid day by day calendar.

I may not be able to pry myself out of the San Francisco El Grande Basilica, it looks so luscious. I Googled Almudena Cathedral and somehow ended up watching a video snippet of the royal wedding there. The dresses of the maids of honor looked like something out of a Velásquez court painting. 500x500_bridesmaids_spainAnd I can’t wait to visit Goya’s tomb in San Antonio de la Florida. I hope it is permitted to leave a little sketch or a very small paint brush. You can recognize the tomb of Fra Angelica in Rome just looking for the scraps of sketches, pencil stubs and tiny brushes, little offerings from artists paying him homage.

Filed Under: Madrid, Preparation Tagged With: preparation, research, Tripadvisor

Two Weeks In Trastevere

August 14, 2016 by Virginia Parker 2 Comments

I’ve wanted to stay in Trastevere since my first visit to Rome. We followed my niece through the cobbled streets along twisting alleyways, listening to the rats dive into the river Tiber,  until we found the restaurant, da Luce (now Hosteria Luce).

I’ve since eaten there three times and painted one of the meals.  Although bloggers and TripAdvisor all lament that Trastevere is no longer what it once was (and who among us is?), that it has become a tourist-infested, rowdy students, all-night party zone, I was hoping to find something that would work for me. I looked up Hosteria Luce online, and they’ve tarted the joint up with chandeliers and schmancy cuisine, but maybe they still make spaghetti cacio & pepe. Here’s hoping.

da Luce Trastevere 07

After prowling various apartment vacation rental sites, and getting some interesting feedback on TripAdvisor, I found several promising apartments. I  exchanged emails with a Trastevere couple.  One poster warned to stay away from two ‘party’ piazzas and the busy main highway, and with the magic of Google maps I could determine the flat I liked wasn’t on those piazzas or near that road. After not sleeping in Madrid, I’ve learned to read reviews carefully and do my due diligence. I even I PM’d one of their last guests (formerly from our neighborhood in Atlanta – small world) who assured me noise was not an issue.

I rolled the dice and booked it for the first two weeks of my trip, when Robert is joining me. I hope I have chosen wisely – an apartment not on a square or piazza, tucked away on a pedestrian street, with a small balcony and a fair amount of space. It’s one block and an alley away from Hosteria Luce.

Trastevere Espresso Finito, oil on canvas
Trastevere Espresso Finito, oil on canvas

Filed Under: Preparation, Rome Tagged With: apartment, preparation, restaurant, Trastevere, Tripadvisor

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