{"id":4218,"date":"2022-04-07T14:53:19","date_gmt":"2022-04-07T19:53:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=4218"},"modified":"2022-04-08T02:01:02","modified_gmt":"2022-04-08T07:01:02","slug":"courtauld-gallery-tate-modern","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=4218","title":{"rendered":"Courtauld Gallery + Tate Modern"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>The day began with a quick stop at Somerset House cafe, WatchHouse, for a flat white and, one of my happiest memories of Lisbon, a luscious Past\u00e9is de Nata. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4223\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/watch-HOuse-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><br>As soon as I entered the first gallery, it was love at first sight. Twenty-two works by Parmigianino. I was enchanted by how easy he makes it look, his economy of line, his\u00a0<em>sprezzatura<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4219\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-263x350.jpg 263w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigianino2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The tenderness of gesture. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-774x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4220\" width=\"387\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-774x1024.jpg 774w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-264x350.jpg 264w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-768x1016.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-1161x1536.jpg 1161w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1-1547x2048.jpg 1547w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/parmigiano1.jpg 1932w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 387px) 100vw, 387px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>All this, and large magnifying glasses were available to see every mark distinctly. Heaven.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tiepolo has that same innate bravura. Paint is his servant; loose without being sloppy. His virgins do not simper. This is a Virgin who knows what\u2019s what.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4221\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-263x350.jpg 263w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Tiepolo-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>From triumphant to doomed. This portrait was a heartbreaker. A beauty, young and full of promise.  But what does the museum card tell us? <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-812x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4222\" width=\"406\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-812x1024.jpg 812w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-278x350.jpg 278w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-768x968.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-1219x1536.jpg 1219w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-1625x2048.jpg 1625w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_8574-scaled.jpg 2031w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 406px) 100vw, 406px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>George Romney painted this portrait around the<\/em><br><em>time Georgiana Peachy married the politician<br>Lord Greville&#8230; Georgiana died on<br>her first wedding anniversary, aged 19, a few<br>days after giving birth.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>How grim is that?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-732x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4224\" width=\"366\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-732x1024.jpg 732w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-250x350.jpg 250w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-768x1074.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-1098x1536.jpg 1098w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-1464x2048.jpg 1464w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/eve-and-serpant-scaled.jpg 1830w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 366px) 100vw, 366px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Another woman whose life doesn&#8217;t turn out well as she&#8217;d hoped. Eve and a serpent who is more mirror than a reptile. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I&#8217;m glad I didn&#8217;t miss the photography exhibition in a small room off the stairs. Anthony Kersting&#8217;s <a href=\"https:\/\/courtauld.ac.uk\/whats-on\/kurdistan-in-the-1940s\/\">Kurdistan in the 1940s<\/a>, vintage photographs of a vanished world.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The expression of this monk. I see compassion, benevolence, and humor. Maybe it&#8217;s just the dimples, but  I can believe he knows the secret to the meaning of life. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-804x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4225\" width=\"402\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-804x1024.jpg 804w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-275x350.jpg 275w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-768x978.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-1206x1536.jpg 1206w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-1608x2048.jpg 1608w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/the-monk-scaled.jpg 2009w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 402px) 100vw, 402px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The skeptical gaze of the tribal girl.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-963x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4226\" width=\"482\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-963x1024.jpg 963w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-329x350.jpg 329w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-768x817.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-1444x1536.jpg 1444w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/skeptical-girl-1926x2048.jpg 1926w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 482px) 100vw, 482px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>From here I skedaddled to the maze of the Tate Modern for the cheese of the perpetually sold-out exhibit of <em>Infinity<\/em>&nbsp;<em>Mirrored<\/em>&nbsp;<em>Room<\/em>&nbsp;\u2013 <em>Filled with the Brilliance of Life,<\/em> by Yayoi Kusama. I arrived on time and chose one of the two queues at random. Thus I saw <em>Chandeliers of Grief<\/em> first, followed by <em>Infinity Room<\/em>, 19 minutes in each line, two minutes in the rooms.  It reminded me of Nabokov&#8217;s line from Speak Memory, &#8220;The cradle rocks above an abyss, and common sense tells us that our existence is but a brief crack of light between two eternities of darkness.&#8221;<br>For me, it was worth it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I&#8217;d booked the lunch that accompanied the exhibition, and Em met me there.  Nice view and a fancy meal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-704x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4227\" width=\"352\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-704x1024.jpg 704w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-241x350.jpg 241w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-768x1117.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-1056x1536.jpg 1056w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-1408x2048.jpg 1408w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-draw-scaled.jpg 1760w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 352px) 100vw, 352px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p> Food delivery was slow as the Troubador, but not as friendly. On the upside, they offer a super fancy delicious sober beverage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4228\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-263x350.jpg 263w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/em-sober-bev-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>We took an Uber boat back down the Thames to the Embankment. That turned out to be more of a romantic idea than an enjoyable experience. I was queasy from the stink of fuel and pitch and roll of what amounted to a river bus.   Nevertheless, I&#8217;m glad to have given it a try.  I may not have floated down the mighty Thames like the royal barges of yore, but I did get a river&#8217;s eye view of the city of London.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4230\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/thames-boat-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The day began with a quick stop at Somerset House cafe, WatchHouse, for a flat white and, one of my happiest memories of Lisbon, a luscious Past\u00e9is de Nata. As soon as I entered the first gallery, it was love at first sight. Twenty-two works by Parmigianino. I was enchanted by how easy he makes [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4235,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[249,257],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-4218","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-britannia-2020","8":"category-london-2022","9":"entry"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/small-kashura-1-scaled.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7OBxc-162","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4218","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4218"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4218\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4238,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4218\/revisions\/4238"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4235"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4218"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4218"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4218"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}