{"id":2867,"date":"2017-03-23T17:15:04","date_gmt":"2017-03-23T17:15:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=2867"},"modified":"2017-03-23T17:15:04","modified_gmt":"2017-03-23T17:15:04","slug":"vatican-museum-day-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=2867","title":{"rendered":"Vatican Museum, Day 4"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>En route to my daily double shot cappuccino at Rubertos, I heard noisy\u00a0cooing overhead, looked up and saw a nest preciously balanced on a light fixture. A pair of pigeons were flying in breakfast and standing sentry. Spring\u00a0is in the air. That&#8217;s mama&#8217;s wing in the top center.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/pigeon.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2915 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/pigeon-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/pigeon-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/pigeon.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>I \u00a0was greeted at the Vatican door by Simona, my tour guide. \u00a0Simona\u00a0has the kind of enthusiasm for art, history, and faith that can&#8217;t be manufactured. She ran &#8211; literally sprinted &#8211; \u00a0to the Sistine Chapel and we sat together while she whispered about \u00a0Michelangelo&#8217;s process. \u00a0She acknowledged the other artistic achievements on the wall &#8211; Botticelli is a standout &#8211; whose work is eclipsed by the tour de force of Michelangelo&#8217;s ceiling. I&#8217;d never noticed\u00a0that Adam and Jesus share the same face. We agreed Savonarola, who\u00a0convinced Botticelli to burn his paintings, had a lot of &#8216;splaining to do. As we walked through the rooms she pointed out where Roman architecture in frescoed backgrounds is a gift to historians. She knew the names of Raphael&#8217;s friends and mentors in the School of Athens. I was looking for la\u00a0Fornarina&#8217;s face.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/Va-Raphael.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2911\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/Va-Raphael.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/Va-Raphael.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/Va-Raphael-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a> I told her about my interest in reliquaries and she knew right where to find them.<\/p>\n<p>[easy-image-collage id=2916]<\/p>\n<p>Check out the simple but effective pierced base of the ivory box. I am so stealing that! Limoges made such delicious blues.<br \/>\nShe pointed to a simple yet beautifully painted crucifix I might have passed by and told me it was carried by Loius XVI as he climbed to the guillotine. Holy cow.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/louis-16-cross.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2908 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/louis-16-cross-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/louis-16-cross-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/louis-16-cross-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> She talked knowledgeably about repouss\u00e9 and engraving techniques. When we both blanked on the word <em>chasing<\/em>, she pulled out a notebook where she&#8217;d written English translations of art-related terminology. She takes her job so seriously she&#8217;d done homework. We are kindred nerd spirits. She&#8217;s done icon painting using original\u00a0methods. She says she solved a difficulty with\u00a0one of them after spending three days in meditation and prayer, the method of the original icon artist. Seriously, I will have to try that the next time I am stumped.<br \/>\nAll in all, a fantastic guide, Insightful, knowledgeable and patient, with a great sense of humor. I can&#8217;t imagine\u00a0a better companion for an artist. If you want her contact deets, hit me up.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/simona.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2910\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/simona.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"296\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/simona.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/simona-300x222.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a>We took a detour so I could meet the kind people in the Patron relations department who&#8217;ve been wrangling my requests for this trip. A trio of delightful young women greeted me, and couldn&#8217;t have been nicer. They took me and my art-fueled enthusiasm in stride. Thanks, ladies.<br \/>\nBecoming a Vatican Museum Patron includes a choice of tours as\u00a0a perk of membership. I selected a tour\u00a0of the restoration department. Boy, did I pick the right thing. It was fascinating to see the restoration in progress, and have the opportunity to meet\u00a0the professionals who, patiently and with great skill, perform this labor. There are in-house staff and several permalancers. \u00a0One person was cleaning a modern art piece that so many people touched it was discolored. Apparently, if it&#8217;s made of brass it&#8217;s a magnet to swiping fingers. Another restoration\u00a0in progress was a shield in shards as thin as paper, sections supported by filament-thin line.\u00a0A few gaps were filled in with paper, painted with watercolor glaze. I have photos, but only for personal use, specifically not for public media. Sorry!<br \/>\nOther restorers were undoing the damage caused by the clumsy efforts of former restorers, like fabricating missing parts, or using substances that accelerated deterioration. Currently, the ideal is to halt decay and remove fake elements, leaving only the original and authentic. The work schedule is set two years out. They don&#8217;t get to pick and chose which projects to tackle. Some religious objects require delicate handling &#8211; reliquaries can&#8217;t be touched unless the relics are removed, which can&#8217;t happen without Bishop&#8217;s oversight. A\u00a0project needs four months of study and two months of work. Think about that. Nerd girl nirvana! I could have sat in for days.<br \/>\nThis has been a wonderful experience for me. \u00a0I am looking forward to singing their praises to the Atlanta Chapter.<br \/>\nMeanwhile, bd sure to look up. This time, it&#8217;s Raphael&#8217;s Adam and Eve.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/adam-and-eve-up-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2891\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/adam-and-eve-up-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/adam-and-eve-up-1.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/adam-and-eve-up-1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>En route to my daily double shot cappuccino at Rubertos, I heard noisy\u00a0cooing overhead, looked up and saw a nest preciously balanced on a light fixture. A pair of pigeons were flying in breakfast and standing sentry. Spring\u00a0is in the air. That&#8217;s mama&#8217;s wing in the top center.I \u00a0was greeted at the Vatican door by [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2912,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[26],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2867","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-rome","8":"entry"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/reliquary-1.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7OBxc-Kf","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2867","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2867"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2867\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2941,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2867\/revisions\/2941"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2912"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2867"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2867"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2867"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}