{"id":2426,"date":"2017-01-13T17:19:21","date_gmt":"2017-01-13T17:19:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=2426"},"modified":"2017-01-13T18:50:13","modified_gmt":"2017-01-13T18:50:13","slug":"oooh-shiny-boston-day-four","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=2426","title":{"rendered":"Oooh&#8230;Shiny! Boston, Day Four"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>One of the perks of a room on the ninth floor: the view over the city at dawn was lovely.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/snowy-morning.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2439\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/snowy-morning.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"364\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/snowy-morning.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/snowy-morning-300x273.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a>Breakfast: sustaining oatmeal, doctored with cinnamon, maple syrup, raisins, and bananas, and more brutally bitter espresso. I need get to \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.wiredpuppy.com\/\">The Wired Puppy<\/a> or even Starbucks.<br \/>\nSummoned Uber, \u00a0and rolled back to the MFA. Not nearly done with it.<br \/>\nStarted through the European painting rooms and right away was transfixed by a Greco portrait of a young monk, Fray Hortensio Felix Paravicino. I started sketching his sensitive, expressive face&#8230;and there went the morning. I tried to keep moving forward &#8211; so many masterworks to see &#8211; but could not resist.<\/p>\n<div class=\"arrow-container\">\n<div class=\"arrow left\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/IMG_5750.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2445 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/IMG_5750.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"654\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/IMG_5750.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/IMG_5750-229x300.jpg 229w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a>More happy than productive, I sketched the morning away. An excellent use of my time.<\/div>\n<div class=\"arrow left\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/greco.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2436\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/greco-300x283.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"283\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/greco-300x283.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/greco.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>I didn&#8217;t capture what I was after, the marvelous ambiguity of an expression both tender and haughty, aesthetic and sensual, but I was rewarded with the opportunity to look closely for as long as I wanted to.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Moving along, I talked with a woman behind a little pushcart with implements of metal work; hammers, chasing tools, wooden dapping form, a pot of tar for repouse\u00e9. She was parked in front of a pyramid of silver pieces mounted on the wall\u00a0and was explaining various silversmithing techniques. As we spoke, I realized that over the last year I&#8217;ve become familiar with that\u00a0vocabulary. It&#8217;s one thing to have an intellectual grasp of the words, \u00a0it&#8217;s another to understand planishing* from muscle memory.<br \/>\nSomewhere at the crossroads of several rooms, I found this display of glass vases in rows. It was brilliantly lit and the perfect lure for a\u00a0painter &#8211; all bouncing sheen and ricocheting shimmer.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/glass-.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2444 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/glass-.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"341\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/glass-.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/glass--300x114.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/glass--768x291.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a>Oooh, shiny. Now this would be fun to paint. Famous last words.<\/p>\n<p>Returned to the incomparable painting <em>Automedon with the Horses of Achilles<\/em> by Henri Regnault and soaked it in. It\u2019s not so much I dislike all art made after 1800, aka \u2018modern art\u2019, it\u2019s that it killed this \u2013 it made skill and technique and purpose and narrative unfashionable, obsolete and unwelcome. That\u2019s what makes me cranky. But not a hater! That screen modeled on a grater is terrific fun, it\u2019s just not this.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/achilles.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-2427\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/achilles.jpg\" width=\"600\" height=\"742\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/achilles.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/achilles-242x300.jpg 242w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Saw a few things I made note of with my trusty iPhone camera:<br \/>\n<strong>Naughty Bread:<\/strong> For some reason, when artists paint bread they appear to have other things than yeast rising on their minds. Seriously, did Luis Mel\u00e9ndez think rendering this in dough would give him plausible deniability?<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bread.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2428\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bread-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bread-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bread.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><strong>Condiment holder:<\/strong>\u00a0I inherited one of these, only nicer. It was passed down from my grandmother\u00a0Irene Lake. Seeing something you cherish presented as a treasure in a\u00a0museum is a thrill.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/condiment.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2432\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/condiment-203x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"203\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/condiment-203x300.jpg 203w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/condiment.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 203px) 100vw, 203px\" \/><\/a><strong>Weathervanes:<\/strong>\u00a0I\u2019m planning to make one for the screen porch. A spaniel, of course. These will help get me going.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/weathervane-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2442\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/weathervane-2-300x180.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/weathervane-2-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/weathervane-2-768x460.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/weathervane-2.jpg 899w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><strong>St Luke Drawing the Virgin: <\/strong>Because he\u2019s the painter&#8217;s patron saint, yo. And the curator on the audio guide speculated it was a self-portrait of the artist Rogier van der Weyden because of the care and detail with which the sketch beneath the head of the saint was done.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/st-luke.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2440\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/st-luke-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/st-luke-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/st-luke.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nI ate lunch at the fancy restaurant, Bravo. It was pricey but decent.<br \/>\nI was about finished for the day and hastening past the impressionists when I saw this painting of a man toweling off after his bath.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/towel.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-2446 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/towel.jpg\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/towel.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/towel-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Out came my pencil and the next thing I knew, the museum was closing. Ubered back and spent some time trying to find an easy way to upload photos (use the damn cable) and searching for information about Mrs. Chase.<\/p>\n<p>On another, much cheerier subject, let us now praise modern technology. I\u2019ve never had much luck with binoculars (they bump against my lenses) and magnifying glasses are not much use in museums when you are supposed to stay at least 12 inches away. But I can take a photo with my iPhone, enlarge it, and see details clearly. This was a small painting (perhaps 5-7\u201d) at the Isabella Stewart Gardner in an obscure corner wall in dim light. I could barely make out the subject. I tapped my \u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/itunes.apple.com\/us\/app\/camera+\/id329670577?mt=8\">Camera+ app<\/a>, took a photo, cropped and enlarged it and OMG. There it was! Buried treasure, lifted into the light. Thank you, Steve Jobs.<br \/>\nAnd when you ask a kind passerby to take your photo and the backlight obliterates you? Filters are fun too.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2429\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2429\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bright-idea-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-2429 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bright-idea-1.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bright-idea-1.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/bright-idea-1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2429\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">I had this bright idea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>*Planishing<\/em> (from the Latin planus, &#8220;flat&#8221;) is a metalworking technique that involves finishing the surface by finely shaping and smoothing sheet metal.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>One of the perks of a room on the ninth floor: the view over the city at dawn was lovely. Breakfast: sustaining oatmeal, doctored with cinnamon, maple syrup, raisins, and bananas, and more brutally bitter espresso. I need get to \u00a0The Wired Puppy or even Starbucks. Summoned Uber, \u00a0and rolled back to the MFA. Not [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[236,137],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2426","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-boston-2017","7":"category-short-trips","8":"entry","9":"has-post-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7OBxc-D8","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2426","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2426"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2426\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2452,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2426\/revisions\/2452"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2426"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2426"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2426"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}