{"id":1381,"date":"2016-04-20T05:31:42","date_gmt":"2016-04-20T05:31:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=1381"},"modified":"2016-08-21T01:31:56","modified_gmt":"2016-08-21T01:31:56","slug":"hermitage-thursday-april-14","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/?p=1381","title":{"rendered":"Hermitage, Thursday April 14"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Yesterday, short sleeve weather. Today rain. Tomorrow snow. Wow, just like home.\u00a0Wore my rain boots and carried my chucks in a bag, which worked a treat.\u00a0My good deed for the day was telling a woman, who hesitated at the cloak\u00a0room over whether to check\u00a0her fleece-lined hoodie or not, to leave it or she\u2019d cook\u00a0like a Sunday roast. Hear me now, thank me later. She left it.<\/p>\n<p>Going for the early Italian rooms today. En route I paused to examine this mosaic table embellished with\u00a0tiny, precise fragments of semi-precious stone.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1393\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1393\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1393\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Dogs are catching my eye - I miss my pup.\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/table2-624x623.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1393\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Intricate and subtle..<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>These chips of stone are so very small that even standing there in good light, I had to\u00a0look at the close-up photo on my iPhone and use zoom to\u00a0see the fine lines of the joinery.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1387\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1387\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1387\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Lovely beast.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-624x832.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1387\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely beast.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1386\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1386\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-detail.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1386\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-detail-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Marvelous work.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-detail-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-detail.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-detail-624x832.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1386\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marvelous work.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Crowds of tourists, specifically\u00a0the huge\u00a0tour groups, pushed past me\u00a0like 18 wheelers blowing past a Smart Car.\u00a0Here&#8217;s a tip; If you want to see the marvelous Peacock\u00a0clock in peace, go after 6pm on a Wednesday or Friday night. It&#8217;s an awesome experience. Of course, if you like seething crowds and a noise level like a thousand monkeys chattering on crack, be my guest.<\/p>\n<p>Left\u00a0the raucous peacock room\u00a0and entered\u00a0this calm and lovely space.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1383\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1383\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/bysantine-room.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1383\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/bysantine-room-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Symmetry. I'm a fan.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/bysantine-room.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/bysantine-room-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/bysantine-room-624x468.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1383\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Symmetry. I&#8217;m a fan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Wandered past incomparable religious works by Italian masters, which still didn&#8217;t prepare me for the glory that is the Loggia.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1396\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1396\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rl-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1396\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rl-3.jpg\" alt=\"A copy of Raphael's testament to the glory of creation.\" width=\"600\" height=\"574\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rl-3.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rl-3-300x287.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1396\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A copy of Raphael&#8217;s Loggia at the Vatican, his testament to the glory of creation.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>It brought tears to my eyes. I can&#8217;t find the words to do the moment justice. It&#8217;s so exceptionally\u00a0beautiful and complex, yet by some miracle, as crammed with visual riches as it is, it doesn\u2019t feel fussy. How is\u00a0that even possible? There are Genesis\u00a0stories overhead and on every side the walls are ornamented with flora and fauna, the bounty of this world rendered with a loving eye for each detail. Even his rat is charming.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1391\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1391\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rat-and-Squirrel.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1391\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rat-and-Squirrel-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Critters.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rat-and-Squirrel-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rat-and-Squirrel.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/rat-and-Squirrel-624x832.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1391\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Critters.\u00a0I hate rats. If you fought to get them out of your attic, you&#8217;d hate them too.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I was that tourist, the one humbly asking strangers to photograph me. But you know,\u00a0even a scowling\u00a0Russian man, who\u00a0irritably growled, &#8220;No English,&#8221; when I approached him, changed as soon as\u00a0he saw\u00a0the iPhone in my hand. He smiled and nodded. Apparently the iPhone is a universal language and an instant bridge between cultures. I\u2019m awed by its power.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1390\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1390\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/raphael-loggia.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1390\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/raphael-loggia-715x1024.jpg\" alt=\"My happy place.\" width=\"500\" height=\"716\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/raphael-loggia.jpg 715w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/raphael-loggia-209x300.jpg 209w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/raphael-loggia-624x894.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1390\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">My happy place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Later, still reeling from the glory of Raphael&#8217;s vision,\u00a0I stumbled down\u00a0to the caf\u00e9 to eat my contraband\u00a0croissant. On the way, I walked though a dark red room lined with enormous\u00a0paintings of hunting dogs bringing down bears and leopards, and tables laden with\u00a0vegetables and game. I hastened back after my break and discovered there were, huzzah, two benches to choose from. I sketched\u00a0a table draped with a peacock and rabbit, the\u00a0dog underneath growling at a hissing cat.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1384\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1384\" style=\"width: 400px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dg-draw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1384\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dg-draw-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Sketch detail\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dg-draw-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dg-draw.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dg-draw-624x832.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1384\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sketch detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I felt fully in my skin. This is why I came. I don\u2019t know how this will shape my future art but I know it fed my soul.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1385\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1385\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-Cat.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1385\" src=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-Cat-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"I knew this so well and was still blown away by the scale.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-Cat.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-Cat-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/dog-Cat-624x468.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1385\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">I knew this image so well through photographs and was still blown away.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>When I finally put down my pencil some hours and several sketches later, I looked out a window to see snow falling. Big, fat cinematic flakes. I grinned like a madwoman and babbled my new Russian word <em>Sneg!<\/em> to every guard I passed on my way out.<\/p>\n<p>Walked through the heavy, wet snow, well protected by my umbrella and plenty warm enough for the ten minute hike to Fruktovaya Lavka. Devoured\u00a0an\u00a0excellent risotto, with chicken liver and grilled vegetables,\u00a0and my favorite\u00a0raspberry tart. Took my first surge-rated Uber. The exchange is so favorable that even doubled, Uber pop was around six bucks.<\/p>\n<p>My iPhone rang\u00a0at 1am, unknown caller. \u00a0I changed my voice mail message to &#8216;I\u2019m in Russia. Text is good and email is better, but if you want me to call you back, leave a message.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Yesterday, short sleeve weather. Today rain. Tomorrow snow. Wow, just like home.\u00a0Wore my rain boots and carried my chucks in a bag, which worked a treat.\u00a0My good deed for the day was telling a woman, who hesitated at the cloak\u00a0room over whether to check\u00a0her fleece-lined hoodie or not, to leave it or she\u2019d cook\u00a0like a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1401,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"quote","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[21],"tags":[109,36,32,194,95],"class_list":{"0":"post-1381","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-quote","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-st-petersburg","8":"tag-drawing","9":"tag-fruktovaya-lavka","10":"tag-hermitage","11":"tag-restaurant","12":"tag-uber","13":"post_format-post-format-quote","14":"entry"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/snake.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7OBxc-mh","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1381","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1381"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1381\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1403,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1381\/revisions\/1403"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1401"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1381"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1381"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.virginiaparker.net\/travel\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1381"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}